New Delhi: February 2015

Delhi Airport

Delhi…wow. There’s no place like Delhi. Javier and I had talked about our Delhi stay, and decided on the backpacker district, Paharganj. We heard conflicting stories. Many visitors had said this was the real face of Delhi. Yes it’s rundown, but it’s authentic for those who can handle it. The Indians we met, however, advised against it. We were told to stay in the “tourist” area where it was much safer. Well, since other tourists seem to have had a good time there, we decided to give it a try. After all, we were only going to be there for a couple days. 

Backpacker area.

Normally, Javier and I are all about soaking up the local scene. We could have done without this one. There was nothing charming about this place. Places can be dirty, crowded, and loud, but usually there is something that makes it worthwhile. Well, if that “thing” exists in Paharganj, we didn’t see it. In fact, we didn’t see “it” anywhere we went in Delhi. For starters, the people were not nice. I understand this is the capital and all, but everywhere else we went, people were very kind, even on the bustling streets of Mumbai. Not so in Delhi.

Smoky weather

When we arrived, we wanted to check the forecast during our stay. Javier’s phone said, “Smoke.” I have never before, nor ever since, seen a weather forecast that said, “Smoke.” But how true it was. 

We liked our hotel. It had everything we needed and was comfortable. The whole neighborhood looks pretty cool at night with everything lit up. They have huge marquee-like neon signs for the hotels, which give it a nice retro feel. You have to be careful not to get run over by cars, bikes, motorcycles or donkeys, on both the street and the sidewalk. The horn honking is non-stop. That’s not an exaggeration by the way. The horns NEVER STOP. Javier had a breakdown one day, and started yelling, “BEEP! BEEP! BEEEEEEEEP!” I was in stitches. I was doubled-over in laughter long after his meltdown ended. I’ll admit it, I too was about to go crazy with all the beeping. When he did that, it was a release for both of us- him yelling, me laughing.

Thali for a buck. good stuff.

We found a local restaurant across the street that served all you can eat Thali for 70rupee…that’s about $1. Delicious. 

We decided to check out the Gate of India. It was an hour walk from our hotel, so we figured we’d make the walk and see the city. When we arrived at an overpass, an Indian man with an Australian accent approached us and started talking. He claims to live in Australia, but is visiting home for a few days. He asked us where we were going, so we told him. He advised us to not take the street under the overpass. Instead, he recommended either taking a tuk-tuk, or walking up and over. He claims that this street was where all of the prostitutes work and the drug dealers hang out. We weren’t sure about this guy, but just in case, we decided to take the tuk-tuk. 

India Gate

We told the driver to take us to Connaught Circle. Instead, he took us to a tourist office close to Connaught Circle. This is why we were skeptical of the Aussie/Indian. We were new to this scheme, so we went into the tourist office, after all, we were interested in booking a car for the golden triangle. We received some information and walked to the Gate of India. On the way there, we walked by a park full of small shops, outdoor markets and loads of homeless people who were drugged out of their minds. It was during daylight hours, so I didn’t feel threatened, but I definitely didn’t feel safe either. Homeless people don’t bother me, it’s the high ones I fear. I remember making a mental note…I don’t want to come this way again. 

The India Gate looked really cool, but what I remember most of the experience was the pollution. It was incredible. It was hands-down the worst pollution either of us had experienced. Come to find out, Delhi is the most polluted city on the planet.   

Tuk tuk and Jackie

We had planned on walking from the India Gate to the Presidential home, but neither of us felt like walking. I was already starting to cough, so we decided to take another tuk-tuk back to Connaught Circle to find a rumored Baskin-Robbins. We looked everywhere and asked everyone. We met workers that said they had been there before, but couldn’t recall where it was. Many people were sure it was there, but where exactly within the 2km circumference, no one knew. We tried, lord knows we did, but we failed. We settled for some other less delicious brand, grabbed another tuk-tuk and went home.  

So many hotels.

The next day, neither of us had the desire to leave the hotel. We had some planning to do, so we just stayed inside and figured we’d go see the other sights when we returned to Delhi. We solidified a driver for the Golden Triangle, ate at our Thali place, and Javier let a kid with the apple logo shaved into his head, cut his hair. Is it any surprise he was not happy with it? During the cut, he was asking me my opinion, and trying to tell the kid what he wanted. It was very obvious that the kid and his friend were talking about us and making fun of us for whatever reason. I don’t think the kid really even finished. Javier just told him to stop. The cost of the haircut was 100rupee, and Javier gave the kid just that. He looked at Javier and said, “No tip?” Javier told him, “No. You think I don’t understand that you’re talking about us? Very unprofessional.” The kid didn’t argue, he didn’t get upset at all, he just turned around and we walked out. Back at the hotel, barber Jackie pulled out the clippers and tried (and kind of failed) to fix the back of Javier’s hair. I have to admit, while I can’t say it looked good, I can definitely say it looked better than it did. Lesson learned, don’t let a kid with an apple logo shaved into his head cut your hair. Clearly, you have different ideas of what looks good. 

To see more pictures of Delhi, click HERE.